Arriving in Venice by cruise ship is both tantalising and frustrating. Sailing slowly through the lagoon brings a sense of excitement and anticipation but you'll have to wait awhile to see the famous faces of the city that you have seen a hundred times in print, on TV, and on film. Ships usually dock at the Port of Venice, within walking distance of Piazzale Roma, where the land ends and the watery city begins. This is also the start of the Grand Canal, the most unusual and most gracious high street in the world.

Grandiose buildings rise up on all sides and it is easy to slip back through the centuries. However away from the Grand Canal and main tourist throng, another Venice appears, with narrow canals, women hanging out their washing and small osterias (bars) where locals outnumber tourists. Despite its museum-like appearance Venice is still a living city.

Vaporetto (public water bus) number 1 from Piazzale Roma all the way along the wide artery of the Grand Canal to Piazza San Marco (St Mark's Square) - the heart of the city - is the perfect introduction to Venice. The Grand Canal is lined with the palazzi of wealthy merchants - from Moorish palaces with narrow windows once picked out in gold tracery, to Renaissance façades, all curved arches and classical symmetry. Almost everywhere of interest is a short walk or a short boat ride from St Mark's.

Highlights
• Basilica di San Marco (St Mark's Basilica): one of the greatest churches in Christendom.
• Palazzo Ducale (Doges' Palace): the former home of Venice's rulers, which also includes the infamous Ponte dei Suspiri (Bridge of Sighs).
• Galleria dell'Accademia: Venice's most important art gallery.
• Ponte Rialto (Rialto Bridge): the city's picturesque 16th-century bridge is also renowned for its market.
• Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari: this 14th-century church is a treasure trove of Venetian art.
• Scuola Grande di San Rocco (School of St Roch): housing masterpieces by Tintoretto and other great Venetian artists.
• Collezione Peggy Guggenheim (Peggy Guggenheim Collection): a world-class collection of modern art.

Azienda di Promozione Turistica (APT, Tourist Board of Venice)
San Marco all'Ascensione - APT, San Marco, 71/f Tourist Information Office, Venice, Italy
Tel: +39 041 529 8711.
Website: www.turismovenezia.it

Venice's small, colourful independent shops are invariably a delight. Of course there is a lot of touristy tat on the main thoroughfares but elsewhere handcrafted individual goods are the norm. 

Where? Mercerie - the succession of narrow busy streets which run from the Piazza San Marco (beneath the Torre dell'Orologio) all the way to the Rialto, where the markets are good for foodstuffs.
What? Carnival masks, hand-painted fabrics, hand-made lace (very expensive), ceramics, art and antiques, hand-printed and marbled writing papers, glass from the island of Murano, Italian designer clothes and leatherware. Emilio Ceccato, on Sottoportego di Rialto, San Polo, specialises in gondoliers' outfits.

Venice specialities
• Fegato alla veneziana (calves' liver thinly sliced and cooked in butter with onions).
• Baccalà alla vicentina (salt cod simmered in milk).
• Radicchio rosso di treviso (wild red chicory with a bitter taste).
• Seppie al nero (cuttlefish in its own ink, served with polenta, a firm yellow cornmeal purée).
• Cichetti (‘Venetian tapas' such as polpette (meatballs) or marinated sardines).
• Tramezzini (sliced white-bread sandwiches with trimmed crusts and outsized fillings).
• Local wines include Prosecco, Soave, Bardolino and Valpolicella.

In the heat of a Mediterranean summer, when the crowds reach their peak, the city can get very uncomfortable. Many visitors are now arriving out of season, when swirls of mist and frosty winds descend upon the canals. Beware flooding in winter however.

The cheapest area for accommodation is around the railway station and in general prices increase the nearer you get to the Piazza San Marco. Bear in mind that thanks to the efficient waterbus network it doesn't take long to get to the Piazza from any part of central Venice.

Cruise Ship Port of Venice
Marittima, Fabbricato 248, 30135 Venice
Website: www.port.venice.it or www.vtp.it/vtpuk

Santa Lucia Station
Fondamenta S Lucia, 30121 Venice
Website: www.fs-on-line.it

Venice Marco Polo (VCE)
Viale G Galilei 30/1, 30173 Tessera-Venezia
Website: www.veniceairport.it

Italy

GMT + 1.

Euro (€) = 100 cents.

Italian.

Northeastern Italy.

61,820.

Kingdom of Italy declared in 1861. Republic since 1946.

Roman Catholic with Muslim and Protestant minorities.

Dress is casual but often smart. Dress conservatively when visiting religious buildings. Smoking is prohibited in most public places. It is always more expensive to sit at a table rather than at the bar, and the cheapest option is simply to stand. 

Tipping: It is customary to give around 10% if service has been good.